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Mountain Guides
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide, Rock Guide & Ski Mountaineering Guides
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ACONCAGUA HISTORY
Cerro Aconcagua - 22,834'
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Cerro Aconcagua, 22,834 (6,959 meters) has the distinction of being the highest mountain in both the Western and Southern Hemispheres, making it also the highest mountain in the world outside of Asia. Its name is native in origin and may come from the Inca word Ackon Cahuak which means Stone Sentinel . This spectacular mountain is located in the heart of the Chilean-Argentine Central Andes, at a latitude of 32 degrees 40 minutes South.
Tribute to Mattias Zurbriggen
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Aconcagua was first climbed in1897, up the Northwest side of the mountain by Swiss Mountain Guide Matthias Zurbriggen. This route has become the most popular way to climb the mountain, and is known as the Ruta Normal or Normal Route. The extreme altitude, severe winds, and cold temperatures make an ascent by this, or any other route on this mountain, very challenging. In 1934, a second route was pioneered up the east side of the mountain, by a Polish team. The Polish approached the mountain up the Vacas and Relinchos Valleys to Plaza Argentina, and summited via what is known today as the Polish Glacier.
Our Polish Glacier and Guanacos
Valley and Traverse Expeditions will follow the 1934 Polish Expedition Route for the first two days. We continue our approach of Aconcagua via the remote and less traveled Vacas and Guanacos Valleys. From our Base Camp at Plaza Guanacos (13,000 ), we ascend gentle slopes all the way to Camp I , II and III. The Polish and Guanacos Routes continue along the same route all the way to our High Camp at19,200 . From here our Polish Glacier Expedition will climb the Glacier reaching the Summit via the Polish Glacier and our Guanacos Valley and Traverse Expedition will traverse to the North side of the mountain, connecting with the standard Normal Route to the Summit.
Trip Overview
Your Aconcagua Expedition - by Rodrigo Mujica
Mendoza, Argentina
Fine dining in Mendoza
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Our expedition begins and ends in the City of Mendoza, Argentina. The city of Mendoza is a charming town with pleasant wide avenues, boulevards and parks. Our first step will be to check your gear in your hotel room, ideally, after you have rested from crossing the globe. Gear check is a critical step. It is important to pare down to the essential items you will need to climb to the Top of the Americas. Often at gear check we discover someone has brought gear that is not warm enough. More than one experienced Alaskan has forgotten the essential expedition parka! It is difficult to procure gear in South America, though times are changing. Do not count on being able to find what you need once you get down to South America. Mendoza is your best bet to buy or rent gear, although it is not always easy to find at the last minute. Make sure you leave home with everything on your equipment list. If you are having serious difficulty finding a particular item please let us know before you leave for South America! We have a limited amount of rental equipment.
A group meeting will follow gear check. We will introduce your guides and team members and talk about several aspects of your expedition. We will discuss the philosophy and style of the expedition, the effects of Diamox and prescription medications at altitude, sanitation, water treatment, teamwork, and the art of climbing big mountains. Dinner will take place immediately after the meeting at a fine Mendoza restaurant reached via a pleasant walk from the hotel. We will have a chance to taste gourmet Argentinean cuisine, fresh beef, delicious wines (there are plenty of alternatives for non-drinkers and vegetarians in the group as well). Be prepared for a late dinner since dinnertime in Argentina begins at 9:00 PM!
First thing the next morning our van will take us to Penitentes, a ski area on the Argentinean side of the dramatic Andes Mountain Range, a 3 to 4 hour ride from Mendoza, ascending over 10,000 feet through rugged mountain scenery.
The drive to Penitentes is spectacular. Approximately 100 miles after leaving Mendoza driving west through the expansive Central Valley, we reach Uspallata, a small agricultural town where we stop for lunchand then continue heading west towards the Cordillera de Los Andes (the Andes Mountain Range). We follow the Mendoza Valley gaining altitude as we drive deep into the jagged Andes. Imposing peaks and profound valleys line our route until we reach Penitentes. Once in Penitentes we do our last minute packing to arrange mule loads and then have a free afternoon to enjoy a hike or just relax. Penitentes is the beginning of our acclimatization process, and although we are at only 8500 the time spent here is essential to our slow building process of reaching 22,834 ! Our body is a high performance machine and it starts compensating right away to the lower oxygen environment, even in Penitentes, producing more red blood cells which is exactly what we want it to do!.
The Approach
The next three days will be spent on our approach to Base Camp at 13,000 . Mules and their muleteers will carry all of our gear to Base Camp except for our day packs which we carry daily with food, water and a change of warm clothes. We have access to our mules and gear every night on the approach. This makes our hike in very enjoyable. Our approach will involve 35 miles of spectacular colorful high desert scenery. Normally it gets very hot and dry during the day. Occasionally a thunder shower will pass by and have us quickly changing from shorts to our warm clothes. After a 4-5 hour hike the first day, we will camp at Pampa de Lenas at 8,910 (meaning grassy area with firewood), unload the mules, set up camp, drink matte (a caffeinated tea served in a gourd and drunk with a metal straw) with the local gauchos, and get our permits checked at the rustic ranger station.
Casa de Piedra Camp
on the Approach
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Early morning we start the day with a glacial river crossing of the Vacas River then slowly gain altitude up the
Vacas Valley heading north. The Valley opens up revealing a geography of high mountains, possible sightings of guanacos (cousin of the llama) and condors, and incredible geological features - a perfect setting for a western movie. At the end of our hike for the day, after a 5-6 hour walk, we reach Casa de Piedra at 10,230 (meaning Stone House) and get our first view of the mountain since we began our approach. From this camp, Aconcagua - the Stone Sentinel, appears more magnificent and intimidating than ever, a giant of Himalayan proportions. We can see the entire East face with the majestic steep Polish Glacier. This is one of the nicest camps of the expedition with a breathtaking first view of Aconcagua and the excitement of getting closer to this colossal peak, mounting, which often makes Casa de Piedra a memorable place throughout the expedition. In the morning we get our daily dose of glacial cold water by crossing the Vacas River again, this time being a mere knee deep walk in cold water since we are much closer to its source here. We continue up the Vacas Valley (instead of ascending the Relinchos Valley). The chance of seeing other expeditions on this new exciting route is remote. The chance of seeing numerous wildlife is much more probable. Spectacular glaciers contrasting with a desert backdrop make this approach both surreal and unforgettable.
We have an excellent chance of seeing herds of guanacos. When Rodrigo did an exploratory trip to this region he encountered several hundred, counting 80 in one sighting alone! These magnificent mammals are well camouflaged, extremely elusive and a rare sight in the Aconcagua region. Here is the place to have your camera ready for some amazing photos as we wind up the valley, getting closer and closer to the mountain. This day is important to our acclimatization. By the end of our day s hike, after 6-7 hours of walking most of us will feel the altitude as we arrive at Plaza Guanaco, our 13,000 Base Camp.
Base Camp
We will spend a minimum of 3 nights in Base Camp. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to acclimatize and make the Summit. The most effective way to do this is to take the time to acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. Occasionally a person does not acclimatize properly and is susceptible to pulmonary and/or cerebral edema. These are serious conditions that require immediate descent. All precautions will be taken to ensure your safety. We will incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to the next camp and returning to sleep below at the previous camp. Carry high and sleep low. The next day we will move to the higher camp.
The comforts of base camp
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The first day in Base Camp is always a rest day and a good occasion to take a bath and go for a short walk. We will divide expedition loads to carry to the next camp; community gear, fuel, food and individual lunches. Often our loads aren t heavier than 50 lbs. Although this may not seem very heavy to you, with the combination of high altitude it can be a considerable challenge to anyone. Make sure your pack is at least 6000 cubic inches capacity since some days you will need this much space for the high traverse (to the normal route) for our Traverse expeditions. Often for the descent the packs are huge since we carry everything at once. At this point in the trip our food and fuel supply is low . Everything else that we have been double carrying or cache-ing, including our garbage, has to go down in one carry.
After our rest in Base Camp we will do a carry to Camp I, at approximately 15,200 . This is a challenging day where we gain 2,200 with a heavy load, up some easy but sometimes tricky, loose terrain. We will emphasize breathing in rhythm with our pace using power breathing, rest step, and other techniques that will help save energy at these elevations. We will incorporate a rest about every hour, and a breather (a short standing break) every 20 minutes or so. As we go higher, this simple breather will became our best friend. Breathers will also be taken more often as we get higher, especially on Summit Day. Breathers are an essential part of high altitude climbing allowing you to keep going for long periods of time.
Camp I
Nieve penitentest near Camp I
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At Camp I we will cache our loads and descend down to Base Camp with empty packs to spend the night. The following morning could be a possible rest day, or a definite move to Camp I; this will depend on how the group did the previous day, how the group is doing now, and on the weather. On most expeditions we do stay an extra day in Base Camp. This has proven to be a great idea. Base Camp is one of the last comfortable places we will be for a while. If you don t take the opportunity to get acclimatized at Base Camp, you may end up taking another rest day (or days) in a more uncomfortable camp somewhere high up on the mountain and jeopardize your chance to summit. More than a needed rest, this time in Base Camp is an essential acclimatization period before tackling the peak!
The move to Camp I is always exciting. Leaving behind the comfort of Base Camp, we begin our climb of the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere. At Camp I, teamwork is key, building rock walls to protect our tents from the wind, making level platforms to place our tents on, fetching snow or water for cooking, organizing our gear, etc. It is endless work camp-crafting at high altitude.
Camps II, III & High Camp
Camp II with Cerro Cuerno
in the background
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Our next step is to establish our Camp II, at 16,500 approx, with first a carry, then a move. We will have fantastic views of the Andes from this camp. The route is straight forward non-technical hiking to reach this camp, our main challenge is altitude. The load seems to get heavier and heavier at these elevations. If needed, we can take rest days or weather days. We have planned for this in our schedule, and extra food and fuel will be carried for this purpose. The next step will follow a carry to Camp III, at about 17,800 , and then a move to Camp III hopefully the next day. Camp III, at 17,800 (5,400 mts), is fantastic with overwhelming views. Here you get the feel that you are up high in altitude!
Our High Camp, Piedras Blancas (White Rocks) at 19,200 , follows the same procedure of carry to High Camp, return to sleep below at Camp III, then move to High Camp. There will be more scree, patches of snow, and thinner air in our daily menu with incredible vistas of the Central Andes. We will be surrounded by 20,000 foot giants. At 19,200 building camp is laborious and takes a group effort. From here on, the route will be different, depending on which Aventuras Patagonicas expedition you are on.
Routes
Aconcagua's E. Face
and Polish Glacier
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For our Polish Glacier and Guanacos
Valley and Traverse Routes the itinerary is basically the same until
we reach 19,200' at the base of the Polish Glacier. Polish Glacier
parties will climb up the challenging and constantly changing
Polish Glacier which begins at 19,200'. Traverse parties will
traverse at 19,200' towards the Normal
Route to White Rocks (Piedras Blancas). After summiting, they will descend
Aconcagua via the Normal Route, on the north side.
Aconcagua Guanacos Valley Traverse
Expedition
Our Guanacos Valley Traverse Route is a relatively untouched approach to Aconcagua with calculated elevation gain between camps, allowing for more efficient acclimatization than other routes. Acclimatization is the key element to summiting the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere and our excellent success rate has been improved by climbing Aconcagua via the Guanacos Valley. Our Guanacos Valley Route was named by Aventuras Patagonicas for the large guanaco herds encountered in this valley, a rare sight in the Aconcagua region. It is the last untouched route on Aconcagua and we are pleased to share this scenic new route with you. Be one of the few people to climb Aconcagua via this route! We have guided on Aconcagua for over 25 years, and in the Guanacos Valley for eleven years. We approach Aconcagua via the pristine Guanacos Valley, meeting up with our long time favorite traverse to the summit, descending via the Normal Route of Aconcagua, circumnavigating the mountain, and exploring several valleys with views of four different spectacular faces of Aconcagua. The Guanacos is a true luxury on Aconcagua, last season only 256 people entered the Guanacos Valley, versus more than 4,000 people on the Normal Route. Out of those 256, 174 were Aventuras Patagonicas clients and guides. We have guided this route almost exclusively since 1997, when we first began guiding Aconcagua via the Guanacos Valley.
Note: This year the Aconcagua Park Authorities have closed the lower Guanacos Valley until further notice. We are working hard to get it reopened for the upcoming Aconcagua climbing season. If the closure persists into next season we will be using the Ameghino Valley and Upper Guanacos Valley Route until the Lower Guanacos Valley access issue can be resolved.
GREAT NEWS 2007!!
ACONCAGUA AMEGHINO VALLEY / UPPER GUANACOS TRAVERSE EXPEDITION
This is the second best route on the mountain after our Guanacos Valley route. It is a previously established route (a.k.a. Relinchos Valley), which we have named the Ameghino Valley, after the striking Ameghino Peak (19,530’) that surrounds us during the entire trip, and to differentiate our approach. After Camp 1 we reconnect with our long time favorite Guanacos Valley Route, offering the best of both worlds; a route less remote than the pristine Guanacos Valley, the comfort of an established Base Camp, access to porters if needed, a doctor on call, etc. The Ameghino Valley & Upper Guanacos Traverse starts with the same approach as the Guanacos Valley for the first 2 days, then we take the beautiful Ameghino Valley. Even today, this eastern approach to the mountain is not as heavily traveled as the Normal Route. After three days of spectacular, colorful, high desert scenery we reach our Base Camp at 13,800’.
Note: This year the Aconcagua Park Authorities have closed the lower Guanacos Valley until further notice. We are working to reopen it by the upcoming Aconcagua climbing season. This closure does NOT affect the Ameghino / Upper Guanacos Route.
WHICH TO CHOOSE - GUANACOS OR AMEGHINO?
Our wisest advise here is: Choose the Guanacos Valley Route (same price) and be prepared to climb the Ameghino Valley / Upper Guanacos Traverse if the lower Guanacos Valley remains closed by the start date of your expedition. This guarantees you the best possible choice if the lower Guanacos Valley opens up by your expedition start date, the most pristine scenery, and the highest overall chance of success. Our Polish Glacier Expeditions will approach Aconcagua via the Guanacos Valley, if it is open, and the Ameghino Valley, if the Guanacos Valley is closed. If you have any questions, please call us toll free at 1-888-203-9354.
THE ACONCAGUA TRAVERSE FOR ALL ROUTES
Guanacos Valley river crossing
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The traverse has proven to be a favorite method of climbing Aconcagua for Aventuras Patagonicas, after having successfully guided Aconcagua this way for many years. This is one of the most interesting and exciting ways to climb Aconcagua. All of our Aconcagua expeditions traverse the mountain, (except our Normal Route with Porters expedition) ascending the spectacular Guanacos Valley Route or the Ameghino Valley & Upper Guanacos Route, and after summiting, descend to our previously established High Camp. We then traverse the mountain and quickly descend the Normal Route.
Mules then carry our gear from Plaza de Mulas back to Penitentes while we hike out to civilization with a light pack. This allows us to experience the entire mountain. We travel through three immense river valleys, and view each of the four tremendous main faces of Aconcagua. For many seasons we have been guiding our expeditions via the Guanacos Valley, which include our traverse to the Normal Route for the descent.
Important Note: Access to the lower Guanacos Valley is presently being contested by the Park Service. We are offering our Ameghino Valley / Upper Guanacos Traverse Route as an excellent alternative, while the access issue to the lower Guanacos Valley is being resolved.
Summit Day Overview
Summit Ridge 22,700'
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Summit day on Aconcagua is a tremendous challenge no matter which route you are on. Reaching Aconcagua’s 22,834’ summit, especially the final 3,600’ to the summit, for many of you will be one of the toughest physical and mental challenges you will ever encounter. It is the most demanding and serious day of the expedition. It is here where taking the time to properly acclimatize by ferrying loads and taking extra days in Base Camp will pay off. It is here where you will be glad you carefully followed the equipment list. It is here where you will feel that you are getting your money’s worth by having expert High Altitude Guides guiding and pacing you closely, and constantly assessing how your body is coping with the altitude. A good window of weather is needed for Summit Day. We have several days for the summit set aside on our itinerary. A calm, windless day is optimal.
SUMMIT DAY DETAILS FOR THE GUANACOS VALLEY & FOR THE NEW AMEGHINO VALLEY/UPPER GUANCOS ROUTES: After an early start it is not unusual to spend 12 hrs climbing up to the summit, leaving camp with headlamps from Piedras Blancas, at 19,200'. An hour later we connect with the Normal Route trail, often a cold morning with a light breeze, where -20 F is not unusual for Summit Day before the sun comes up. Gentle slopes will take us to Independencia, an old abandoned wooden hut at 20,790’. Normally the sun shines here for the first time that day. It is pleasant but still very cold. The next section is called “El Paso del Viento” (meaning the Pass of the Wind), where often there is a strong breeze even on calm days. This pass is entirely in shadow this time of the day, and it is critical to move with efficiency through this section to avoid frostbite, and worse case scenario, to abort our summit attempt due to severe cold or weather.
The next section is called the Canaleta, at 21,450'. This can
be the crux of the entire climb, depending on conditions. Sometimes
it can be covered with hard packed snow. Snow in the Canaleta
is ideal. Or sometimes the slope is dry with loose boulders and scree.
Pacing yourself becomes difficult, due to altitude and the loose scree
and boulders underfoot, making upward progress frustrating and challenging.
We often rope people up through some sections where a potential
long slip could occur. Note: remember that you DO NOT need a harness for
this route. Your guide(s) will carry a rope and webbing to quickly rig
a harnesses if needed. After the Canaleta we reach the Summit Ridge, just
300 from the Summit. This last section takes normally up to 1 hour. From
the Summit Ridge you can look down the spectacular South Face of Aconcagua,
a gigantic 10,000 face of rock, snow, and ice. The South Face is one of
the hardest and most renowned routes in the Andes, a serious undertaking
for even the expert climber.
After summiting we return to High Camp and get a well deserved rest The next day we descend the Normal Route to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. Here we will spend the night and arrange our gear for the mules to carry out. The next day is a one day walk out to the trailhead where transport will meet us and take us back to Penitentes. After a night in Penitentes we will return to Mendoza where a fun celebration dinner awaits us!!
Arriving at the Summit
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ON THE POLISH GLACIER ROUTE: For this route we need an early start. At about 1:00 AM our stoves will be running for our Polish Glacier climb. We have a very demanding and long day ahead. An 18 hr day is very possible while climbing the Polish Glacier. The line we choose will depend on conditions. If a lot of penitentes (snow pinnacles formed by direct sunlight) are encountered in the lower section of the glacier we will start by climbing through the scree and rock on the right hand side. The steeper Polish Glacier Direct Route has been the choice route in recent years. Although steeper, it is safer and easier due to fewer icy and exposed traverses than on the old Polish route. On this spectacular, steep snow and ice climb we will use several running belays. In steeper icy sections we will climb pitches instead of using running belays, belaying and regrouping at every anchor. A long day of climbing will take us to the Summit Ridge at 22,000 after the last steep pitch;
a 55-60 degree narrow gully with the entire Glacier below at our feet. The final ridge is very long and gentle. After summiting, we descend quickly down the Normal Route, where at Independencia (20,790 ) we traverse east back to our High Camp at 19,200 . After an exhausting day we sleep late and the next day descend to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp, and then it is a one day hike out to Penitentes.
Ratio
For non-technical routes we take a maximum of 9 clients and 3 or 4 guides. For the Polish Glacier we take a maximum of 6 clients and 2 guides. Normally on the Polish Route we take 4 clients and 2 guides.
Food
Pizza on Aconcagua?
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Our menus are some of the best expedition menus available in the guiding industry. They have been developed meticulously and thoughtfully, evaluating amount of calories per day, carbohydrates, weight, taste, variety and creativity. We are very proud of our menus and Rodrigo uses them as well in his Alaskan expeditions on Denali. Most of our dinners and breakfasts are carbohydrates. For the approach and our stay at Base Camp we bring fresh fruit and vegetables, meat and fish, a variety of fresh appetizers, and wine. Dinners up high are complemented with freeze-dried vegetables. We will eat 100% freeze-dried meals only at our high camps for a maximum of 3-4 days per expedition. It has been proven to us that freeze-dried isn t the best choice except where weight and cooking time is a factor up high. They have a lot of preservatives, are not the best energy source, and can be sometimes hard to digest. The freeze-dried meals we have chosen are our favorite and you may find them very delicious! For the rest of our meals we use food such as rice, mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese, cous-cous, tortellini, pastas, etc, complemented with freeze-dried vegetables and sauces for flavor and variety. Our lunches have lots of high energy calories, fiber, and complex carbohydrates, changing according to the altitude that we are at. We emphasize tremendously on staying hydrated and bringing plenty of all kinds of tea, juice, cocoa, etc. We have soup every night of the expedition with dinner, except for Day One. One of the most important aspects of our menu is the way we pack our food. Although not related to the taste of the food, it is logistically one of the keys to our success. We carefully measure everything in specific amounts. Everything is carefully prepackaged, labeled by day, and waterproofed to take the abuses of a 3 day mule ride. Finally, the small amount of garbage that we produce during the expedition is an indication of our careful packing process. We will also bring all the way to Base Camp, carried by mules, fresh vegetables and fresh fruit. Please let us know when you sign up for an expedition if you are vegetarian, have any food allergies, or strong preferences or dislikes so we can pack food accordingly for the expedition.
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